Category: Newsletter (Page 15 of 20)

During the final weekend I was in Buenos Aires, I went to a soccer match. It was the first game of the new season so there was an air of novelty, though Argentina is unusual as there are two seasons every year for its top division. I chose to attend a home match of Boca Juniors, one of the two biggest clubs in Argentine soccer along with River Plate. This match was not a superclasico between the two Argentine giants, but Boca is famous for having one of the most imposing stadium atmospheres anywhere in the world. The stadium is called La Bombonera, which translates to the chocolate box, so named for an older version of the stadium that looked like a box of chocolates and one of the great stadium names anywhere.

Attending a soccer match in Argentina is not as simple as just buying a ticket and showing up. For one thing, visiting fans aren’t allowed inside stadiums. Argentina is not the only country in Latin America with this policy that is a sad reminder of the violence that has sometimes broken out in the stands. There are also different classes of tickets. Most tickets are allocated to socios, a form of membership that is comparable to being a season ticket holder. There can be additional single tickets for purchase, but there is no guarantee that any will be available.

To eliminate the risk, I overpaid to ensure someone local would be with me attending the match. As it turned out, I’m not sure this was an overpay at all as there was an issue with the socio card I was given to enter the stadium. I still don’t know exactly what the problem was, but I was escorted by a team employee to another line where he explained the situation to a cashier and she placed a wristband with an embedded scannable code on my arm. It was stressful, but there was nothing I could do other than laugh at this misfortune. Eventually, though, everything got sorted and I was able to pass through the turnstiles.

There was still almost a half hour before kickoff, so I was still able to get the full pregame experience. My seat was along the sideline, about at the 25 yard line if it were a football field. Mind you, this is not where our tickets were, but I preferred to be a little higher up than the fourth row so I could see more of the pitch. The atmosphere inside built as more and more people crowded into the stands. When the crowd really got going in the minutes leading up to kickoff, both ends of the stadium were just noise and color of waiving banners and balloons. They were singing the same songs, but the timing was a little off between the two ends so the effect was a very strange and rapid echo. A few flares added some smoke to the atmosphere, and then we were ready for kickoff.

For large stretches, what was taking place on the field was almost an afterthought. Boca were dominant in possession, but the final killer pass was lacking for most of the half. Then someone finally found that perfect pass and it resulted in a simple tap-in goal. When Boca scored, the place shook. This was both exhilarating as it resulted from such an outpouring of joyful emotion and disconcerting as the structure is mostly concrete and steel. A second followed shortly thereafter and all signs pointed towards a blowout. Then out of nothing the visitors stole the ball in midfield and broke forward to score themselves. And the Boca fans responded by getting louder to back their team to respond, something I’ve always wanted to see but that never happens when the other team scores in our stadiums.

The second half was rather drab with the only real on-field action being a mistake from one of Boca’s central defenders and a great save to keep the score at 2-1. When the final whistle blew, I stood and slowly turned in circles to take in the receding scene around me. The wall of people and noise to my left only began to fade after the players left the pitch, but those in my section filed out in quick order. Exiting the stadium was much less chaotic than entering, and we walked backed to where the car was parked. I was then driven back across the city and dropped off at a subway station to proceed with the remainder of my time in Buenos Aires.

In order to traverse Buenos Aires as quickly as possible, I have taken many journeys by subway during my stay. It helps that each ride only costs about fifteen cents. During off-peak hours, vendors walk through the train cars selling things. They sell boxes of tissues, face masks, chewing gum, sewing kits, highlighters, or whatever else they have managed to procure (chewing gum is a consistent best-seller). There is an established protocol for how these vendors operate. The vendor places the item in the lap of everyone seated in a train car (you can opt out with a simple hand gesture no) then doubles back to collect the goods. Prices are listed on stickers on the items. If you don’t want to buy, the vendor will pick up the goods as he circles back. If you wish to make a purchase, you hand him money instead of the item. If you want a different flavor or color, he will make it happen. And then the vendor will move into the next train car and repeat the process. The whole operation takes about the same amount of time as traveling a single stop, but if you wish to purchase before exiting the train you can flag the vendor down and he will make his way over to you. And you can just leave the item on the seat if you aren’t buying but have reached your stop.

The rules for this commerce are not posted, but all of the locals know them. This has been a simple example of something that I don’t normally notice but that is heightened by being a visitor here. Everywhere as its own quirky customs, things that don’t make sense when first viewed by outsiders but that often have internal logic. In the case of these subway vendors, it is an efficient way to purchase things in transit even if there is a lottery to what is offered. Stepping out of my normal environment into another has allowed me to observe this, and that is one of the great benefits of travel.

Now that everyone who was with me has returned home, I can publish about last week. A group of six of us flew to Argentina for a high-volume dove shoot. I was something of a tagalong. The trip was purchased as a gift, only for COVID to delay it by a few years. There was a minimum number of hunters required to make the trip happen, so invitations were circulated back in Kentucky and Dad received one. He invited me along too to help fill out the numbers. I also brought to the group my ability to communicate in Spanish and my willingness to act as travel agent.

We stayed at a lodge outside Arroyito, a small city about an hour and a half east of Cordoba in country that is reminiscent of the Great Plains of the United States. Some parts of the lodge were almost comically built for Americans, especially the massive walk-in showers in the cabins, but overall the feel was modern estancia. While green roofs meant the complex lacked the grandeur of some of the old Spanish estates I have visited elsewhere on the continent, it was much nicer than I needed it to be for a shooting trip. The food was wonderful all week, with the lodge employing a chef just to cook for the guests (ten in total during our stay—we were joined by four others from East Texas). Since I was the only one who could converse with the kitchen staff, I also received preferential treatment in the form of customized orders and seconds and sometimes thirds of what I enjoyed. This being Argentina, that included steaks of various cuts and never less than two inches in thickness. Add in some chimichurri and not much more is needed for a great meal. You can even skip the chimichurri if you want.

For the shooting, each hunter is paired with a helper/gun boy, an ayudante in Spanish, and these were not boys but men who do this for a living. His job is to make your blind and reload your shotgun with a taped-up thumb to avoid blisters from loading hundreds of rounds. Mine was Mauricio. He was four months younger than me and spoke the best English of all of the ayudantes. He later told me that he picked me because I spoke the best Spanish, and we went back and forth all week switching between the two languages learning from each other. During the second half of the week, I shot together with Dad, which created the opportunity for three people to talk about him without him really being able to understand. Everyone was amused by much of that conversation.

There were morning and afternoon shoots to correspond with the flight of the doves. Sometimes we would stay in the field for lunch and sometimes we would return to the lodge. The drives were longer than anyone would have preferred, but the conversation was always entertaining in the way only conversation at hunt camp can be. In the evenings we would eat our massive dinners and then sit around talking or standing outside looking up at the Milky Way around a campfire. During part of looking upwards, I even saw some of the Starlink satellites moving as a line of lights. Let me tell you, that was a weird sight and one of the stranger things I’ve ever seen.

While the rest of the group returned to the United States after a return connection to Buenos Aires, I stayed in the Argentine capital and will be here for the next few weeks. This is an extension of the European experiment, though one that should be simpler as there is only one hour difference in time and I have a second monitor. It was jarring to be back in a bustling city after a week in the quiet countryside, but I have already shaken this off and started to find a rhythm.

Sunday was a strange day. It started with an overnight flight and maybe two hours of sleep, but I have been on a few long flights recently so that wasn’t the weird part. Nor was returning to a city I’d visited before. I’d been to each of the cities on our recent European jaunt at least once already. No, what made Sunday strange was trying to compress the best parts of what took me two weeks to explore before into a single day for the benefit of others. It was like trying to be the tour guide of all tour guides, yet my charges had so little by way of expectations that anything I showed them made them happy. Maybe there is a lesson to be learned there, but I’m not yet sure what it might be. In any event, the expectations can lengthen the joy of traveling as anticipation builds during the planning phase. I am not the only one in my group who has looked forward to this week for several years.

I have been accused of taking people on death marches before, and was yet again on Sunday, but this walking wasn’t bad. Besides, at the end of each leg of the journey was either food and drink or a change of clothes and a hot shower. I wanted my travel companions to get a feel, ideally a positive one, for a city I greatly enjoyed in my previous visit and hope to enjoy again soon. The best way I know to gain a feel for a place is to walk through it and eat its food, and this we did. I carefully selected the neighborhood just as I carefully chose the location of the hotel, and even during the early afternoon on Sunday there were inklings of the vibrancy that characterizes the place. I felt slightly insulted when they were surprised by how good lunch was, but I have come to expect that people will erroneously question my food choices.

We spent the afternoon on a whirlwind tour by private car. I directed the drivers from spot to spot. Once we arrived at a location, we exited the vehicles, we walked around the location, at least one of the members of our group took way too many pictures, I instructed the drivers where to go next, we got back into the vehicles, and off to the next destination we went. I tried to cram as much as possible into a half-day tour, a very American way of traveling but appropriate for the circumstances.

I was questioned even more about my choice in restaurant for dinner. As there was a nice brisk walk before we arrived from the hotel (chosen based largely on its location relative to that specific restaurant), the peanut gallery was in full voice by the time we arrived. Not even being greeted by champagne while we waited for our table was enough to silence the doubters. The meal did though, and I basked in the glorious silence that sets in during a feast when everyone is eating and no one wants to waste any precious time talking while all that food is just sitting there. That feeling and the satiation that came from the meal made for a very pleasant walk back to the hotel. Then we were off early the next morning, onto the next destination and the main event of the trip.

This week at work has been all about consolidation. We learned a number of lessons during our European sojourn that we are presently implementing. We continue to tighten our availability in order to improve our productivity, energy, and focus. We are making our intake process more standardized so that there is less slippage. We are building out improved documents as we learn best practices through doing more deals. We are consolidating relationships that we have made over the past few months that should prove fruitful for all involved. While we are taking a bit of a pause to incorporate what we learned into our working procedures, it isn’t much of a pause as we are moving towards what may be as many as seven or eight closings before the end of May. It is an exciting time for the business.

Over the weekend, I was also reminded of how important family and friends are. This is a different form of consolidation of some of the ideas I had while abroad but no less important. I was in Kentucky for a wedding-retirement-Derby party. On the drive, I picked up my brother and sister-in-law at the airport and was able to spend some time alone with them over dinner. On Saturday, a large number of people gathered at my parents’ home for the party and I was thrust back into the social life of a small town. This meant a great deal of talking about the business and of what has been recorded in these newsletters as many of my most faithful readers were in attendance.

It was decided that the most fun way to handle the horse race itself was to have a random drawing for horses in two pots. I did much the same once in college and hilarity ensued as everyone yelled at the television for two minutes, but this crowd was more educated about horse racing and more sedate. Well, most of the crowd was more educated about horse racing. I spent the race giving a running commentary to two of my young cousins who had never seen a horse race before. They were transfixed by everything going on around them during the race but I’m sure they will need further instruction. Everyone at the track was stunned by the result, so much so that you could almost hear the silence through the television, but somehow no one at the party was surprised when I won the loser pool. Yes, it may have been a random drawing, but I drew the horse that came in last place and so won the whole pool. Because of course that’s what happened.

The weekend was a marked contrast to much of the time I spent in Europe over the last month alone. This provides yet more fodder as I continue to think about how I want to live this phase of my life now that we have proven to ourselves that we can work from elsewhere.

When this post went out, I was aboard a plane flying back to the United States after almost four weeks in Europe. This was the first real test of whether we can truly work from anywhere in this legal practice, and it has been a qualified success. There are some additions that will be needed (i.e. getting a portable monitor like I mentioned last week), but our deals have kept progressing and our long-term clients have had their legal needs met. A few other observations follow.

This was my first time in Europe in the spring. The mornings and evenings have required jackets of varying thickness, but that is preferable to the rising humidity and temperatures in the high 80s to which I am returning. It has been an ideal time to be here. I have noted the temperature ranges and may take steps to increase the number of days during the year when I am in such climates.

Being in Europe and working west coast hours is not viable for me. The nine-hour time difference has not meshed with my early rising. This has not been helped by a lack of blackout curtains in my accommodations. I’m not sure what the answer will be to this problem, but further experimentation will be required to find a solution that doesn’t leave me dragging through half of the afternoons during the week.

Eating out at every meal has been both blessing and curse. It has given me a better feel for these cities, yes, but it has also been a frequent reminder that most of this trip has been spent alone and has meant that my diet has not been as regimented as I prefer. I will tweak these protocols when I take my next sojourn.

In order not to sacrifice on location for my Airbnb rentals, I opted for private rooms instead of having an entire place to myself in both Vienna and Berlin. Neither one worked as I had hoped. Instead of gaining a guide, I felt more like an intruder living a parallel life under the same roof in both apartments. Having a place to myself will also help with the food issue as I am more comfortable cooking somewhere that isn’t someone else’s kitchen who is sitting in the living room.

Being with other people created the potential for greater enjoyment. Some of the more enjoyable meals on this trip were in busy Parisian cafes with colleagues. And my weekend in Berlin had the most variation and spontaneity of any weekend so far this year as I leaned into the activities on offer as I reconnected with an old friend. This took me to a family birthday celebration, a Kreuzberg bar, some great doner kebab, and a meetup with a group of people I wish I could meet again. It wasn’t that the activities were only possible in Berlin (though there are few places that do doner kebab as well as here where the food was invented), it was that I was thrown into groups of people who accepted and even embraced my presence, the sort of thing I have never managed without some help even in the English-speaking world. It has left me wondering about possibilities. I don’t plan to take any action on these thoughts immediately, but it has left me wondering.

Different city, similar story this week. I wrote this in a coffee shop where I worked this morning. I’ve traveled from Vienna to Berlin. This iteration of the work-from-anywhere experiment will continue for another week for me. Then it will be back to the US to regroup and consolidate from what has been learned during this European sojourn. At a minimum, I’ve learned that I need a portable second monitor to make things work. If anyone has used one that they would recommend, I’m accepting suggestions. There have also been some lessons in scheduling, but I’m uncertain that those will be implemented soon as we don’t frequently need to manage nine-hour time differences when in North Carolina like we have been with our clients based on the West Coast during this trip.

Berlin and Vienna are very different cities. Vienna has more grandeur and feels older, more refined. It has the palaces, the Ringstrasse, the art at the Albertina and Belvedere, and the peddlers in ridiculous outfits trying to get people to attend classical music performances since Mozart lived in the city. I attended a chamber music concert at the opera house on Saturday. It was just short enough to maintain my interest, and while I’m glad I attended I’m not eager to attend another such performance in the near future. Berlin is grittier, has graffiti everywhere, and feels like the sort of place where there would be lots of black leather jackets if it were an American city. These differences are linked to the two cities’ different histories, but they go some way towards explaining why Berlin is not atop many Americans’ list of European cities they wish to visit. That said, there is an energy in Berlin that I didn’t feel in Vienna or Paris. Maybe it is just spring arriving later in Berlin and the timing of my visit, but I suspect there is more to it. This is the startup hub of continental Europe, and tomorrow I will attempt to get a glimpse of this by working out of one of the coworking spaces here. It isn’t likely I will make any connections while there (it is me, after all), but I will be in a place where a serendipitous connection might be possible.

There is also more variety in the food in Berlin. Even though I did not eat at the same restaurant twice in Vienna, I did have the same dishes several times. The first schnitzel I had was my favorite, so that was a little unfortunate. I am following the same rule in Berlin, but I don’t expect that I will have a doner kebab more than two or three times while I’m here (even though this is where the dish was created and the best of the genre can be found here). I have been eating out every single meal during this trip. That is not sustainable even if I did budget for it but does leave me wanting to eat at new restaurants when I get back to Raleigh and not just go back to the same three or four places I have frequented in recent months. Maybe I can even find a few people to participate in those culinary explorations.

My European exploits continue this week. I am now in an unseasonably cold Vienna. Not that that has stopped me from taking long walks in the morning and planning my days around meals at restaurants I want to enjoy. Such a program has its hits and its misses. Yesterday I walked the entire Ringstrasse, one of the world’s great boulevards. I timed it so that I ate an early lunch at one of the restaurants in the Michelin guidebook, one especially chosen for its discounted lunch prices. This is, after all, not the first time I have visited Europe. It was a lovely meal with myriad subtle flavors (rhubarb blueberry lemonade anyone?), a craft saison with elderberry with an unexpected dry taste given its sweet/sour smell, and a waitress that started in German each time she visited my table. My German is much better than my French, but it is nowhere near as good as my Spanish and I am unable to speak in complete or even coherent sentences on most subjects. That she kept speaking to me in German was more a reflection on my appearance than anything else, something I have come to expect in this part of the world. Lunch also ended up being cheaper than my rushed dinner that was of much lower quality. As I said, hits and misses.

I visited the Belvedere Museum on Sunday and despite watching a well-written YouTube video about the significance of Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” did not find myself moved by it in the same way as I do when I stand before the Impressionist masterpieces. There was a quirky bit that ties into the conference from last week as the museum has minted NFTs of portions of its most famous painting, almost as if each dot in a pointillist work were being sold individually. We are still in the earliest stages of NFTs and it is still a technology searching for meaningful use cases, but the advent of these “overpriced JPEGs” has already altered the economic fundamentals of the art world at every level.

Today I visited the Albertina Museum. It is more my style with its Monets, Picassos, and even a few drawings by Michelangelo, but there was one exhibition that only made me uneasy. Most of its works were scenes from a psych ward—no people, just cold furniture, walls, and doors. The artist had himself suffered a mental breakdown and his time in a psych hospital was his inspiration for the series. I wish he’d found a different muse, but at least that was the first exhibition I visited and so the better parts of the visit came afterwards to chase away the ickiness.

I am working from a table at a Viennese café editing this. I considered a coworking space but opted against it given that this is Vienna, a city famous for its cafés. I don’t drink coffee or tea and much of the romance is lost as I sit working at my computer and not reading a newspaper, editing a manuscript, or having some philosophical conversation. Still, I am doing it. It is unlikely to help me make any new acquaintances, but it is a gesture in that direction. Finding comrades, that difficult task under any circumstances, may prove the most difficult part of a digital nomad lifestyle.

It was my birthday on Monday. The amount of change in my life over the last year has been greater than at any point in my adulthood. I am a corporate lawyer now with a growing M&A practice and a few startup clients that have me immersing myself in emerging technologies. I live in a new city. I have a job that lets me work from anywhere. I’m finally putting that flexibility to work.

I’m actually sitting in a conference room in Paris writing this. The past few days have been the beginning of a multi-part experiment. We arrived in Paris on Sunday evening. Monday and Tuesday were spent with a different schedule. I spent the morning and early afternoon both days exploring the city—revisiting Musée D’Orsay, walking through the Luxembourg Gardens, getting sticker shock at Galleries Lafayette, etc.—all before the workday began in Eastern time. The methods of travel have been metro and walking, two modes I have used at many times and in many places in my prior travels. It has been refreshing to return to this comfort zone after an interlude of something like two and a half years. My utter lack of French has not helped, but sight “reading” is possible with the language so I have mimed and pointed my way through the necessary interactions.

My culinary experiences have been mixed with both meals that have me contemplating taking some classes to learn to prepare some of the basic sauces that form the backbone of French cuisine and meals that have me wondering whether something got lost in translation when the menu was converted into English. I have not returned to the Louvre, and probably won’t on this trip, but I was frustrated that the Musée de l’Orangerie was closed yesterday (why Musée D’Orsay is closed on one day and Musée de l’Orangerie is closed on another is beyond me, especially when you can buy a single ticket to visit both).

Work has still gone on, but in the later afternoon through to almost midnight to accommodate meetings with people on the West Coast. This part of the experiment will continue for the next few weeks and there will probably be some variation in the work schedule to better calibrate it, but these posts will more likely cover the things I get into outside of work as I live in work in a few other European cities.

We were in Miami for a few days. It was warmer than the last time I was there and more humid too, but it wasn’t unbearable just yet. That said, I would rather not return again until at least what is the late fall here in North Carolina. It was Bill’s first visit to Florida, and I’ll just say that I’m glad Miami was not my first experience in the state. He only saw some of the showier parts of the city (though I made it clear I had no interest in going over to Miami Beach on this trip so he didn’t get to experience the chaos of South Beach). The choice of hotel and location of the conferences we attended dictated this, but I was okay with him not developing a strong desire to return soon given my attitude toward the summer in South Florida. Then I spent a contrasting, pleasant Sunday with my brother and sister-in-law in quieter sections of the city and ended my time in Miami with an arepa at a restaurant where the staff didn’t even pretend to speak English and a brisk walk through the airport terminal to get straight onto my return flight.

As our visit centered around attending conferences (this was ostensibly a business trip after all), there was a lot taking place. That commotion was why we were there, to expose ourselves to as many new ideas, developments, and projects as possible in a short period of time. There was a lot of silliness too, but those things weren’t overbearing and we were able to filter them out of our sensory intake.

Some of what we encountered validated a thesis that has been developing in my mind for several months. The particular strategies I will deploy to implement it are still to be determined, but at least now I have a destination and can chart a course to arrive there. What was even more exciting, though, was what we found missing. Sure, these were not the largest conferences dedicated to this growing field, but much of what we saw represented cutting-edge developments. We have been hearing about one of the next big things deploying these technologies for some time now but the current iterations are wanting, and this got our mental gears turning. Perhaps nothing will come from these ruminations, but we have decided to further explore some possibilities.

To sum up the experience, it was a testament to the value of exposing myself to new ideas and the latest developments in a growing field and to the value of resting and grounding myself with family. It was a nice change from the heads-down, build-the-business ethos that has been (and will remain) mine at least until we have a stable foundation under our feet through our legal practice.